MOTYDESIGN

Preface:

This is to be a truly unbiased test. I have no favorites, i came into this with an open mind and the motivation to find the truth behind
who's stuff is best once and for all.


Ordering, Websites, and Costs

Xenon Experts: Cost = $145* Ordering = 10/10 Site = http://www.xenonexpert.com/
DDM Tunning: Cost = $98.62* Ordering = 5/10^ Site = http://www.ddmtuning.com/
JDMLighting: Cost = $95* Ordering = 10/10 Site = http://jdmlighting.com/index.php
HID: Cost $64.98 Site = no score E*ay.com
*price includes shipping handling (to your door price)
^ DDM's new site did NOT take my paypal the first time around was told to wait a day, so i did. I then called back and used
my C.C. and the order was finally placed.

Customer service:
This is a hard department when comparing multiple competitors, but i will try my best. These are MY experiences and that is all i can judge by
(please no rebuttals on this as there is no way to solve)

DDM was available by phone, but the email that i sent before i called was never answered. Wen speaking to them on the phone it seemed as if there were 20 other
people waiting to talk to this guy, who obviously seemed a bit rushed and was not as personable as i like.

Xenon Experts was never called all communication was done via email and PMs. The response time was quick, all questions were answered fully. the email and PMs
were not short or bothersome to read (as in you could tell the inflection was positive)

JDMLighting really shined (no pun intended ) i emailed and then requested i called to insure all my questions were answered to my satisfaction.




Shipping:

Shipping times vary so once again this is what i had

DDM - Placed order on 3/3/09 received on 3/6/09
JDMLighting - Placed order on 3/6/09 received on 3/18/09
Xenon Expert - Placed order on 3/6/09 received on 3/16/09
HID - Placed order on 3/6/09 received on 3/18/09



Presentation/Packaging:

From here on out this is how the names will read
JDMLighting = Extreme Vision = EX
DDM Tunning = DDM
Xenon Experts = Volt
E*ay = HID

EX = Gloss box with foam cutout to hold the bulbs and ballasts which was in the shipping box that was well padded. Contents: stick pads and
zip ties as ell as a few bolts. User manual was nicely done and FULLY informative.
Volt = Gloss Box foam all like above. Contents: a pair of Gloves (nice touch!!!). User manual once again FULLY informative.
HID = Same as above with packing. Contents: user manual also FULLY informative.
DDM = Small black both with three boxes inside with a small page and invoice. in two of the boxes were the bulbs and the third were two ballasts.
no real padding in there at all. Contents: User manual single piece of paper not very informative, enough to kinda guess which each part did.



Quality:

At first glance they all seem similar... which the bulbs were all VERY similar. After further research you will find that there are only a hand full of companies
that actually manufacture the bulbs, 3 that i could find. So honestly the bubs in my eyes are the same and not what you are paying for. It is the ballast that everyone will
tell you that makes the difference

So digging deeper will show that there is a bit of difference between the companies ballasts.


1. Plugs and wires
EX and DDM has some nice thick gauge wires run through (looks like 12 or 14) the point at which they enter the igniter and ballast have nice shear prevention rubber pieces.
Volt and HID has a metal shear protection device, typical of the older style HIDs (not sure it these are better or worse just stating whats there). the voltage in plugs on all
seem to be the same. Bulb plugs on HID, DDM, and EX all seem to be the same, wire running into the plug. What stands out is Volt's wires to the bulb plug, they added a little extra sheathing all the way to the plug then heat shrinked it.


DDM





HID




Volt





EV






2. Weights and size (one ballast)
DDM = .65 lbs
HID = .85 lbs
EX = .55 lbs
Volt = .7 lbs

All measurements are taken from largest points Length X Width X Height (this includes tab length) HID is Exempt from the bracket as it is removable
DDM = Ballast 11mm X 6.2mm X 1.6mm Igniter 6.3mm X 3.2mm X 2.4mm
Volt = Ballast 9.3mm X 6.7mm X 1.5mm Igniter 5.9mm X 3.6mm X 2.9mm
HID = Ballast 10.5 X 7.5mm X 3mm Igniter internal
EX = Ballast 8.1mm X 6.1mm X 1.1mm Igniter 6.3mm X 3.2mm X 2.4mm

The idea of slim ballast came out and everyone jumped on the train, But one does have to take into the account that the old large ballasts held the igniter.
The REAL reason the slims seem so much easier to hide is due to the fact the igniter has been moved down the cord a bit so that there are two smaller items to hind
rather than one big one. This also helps with heat. two smaller objects have greater surface area and there for able to release energy faster. so volume is still
close to the same but function 10 folded with the slim ballast idea.


3. Internal components
okay so i voided my warranties, i am sure on all these, but it was worth it to make this a full evaluation

DDM = aluminum housing, direct material mating, full epoxy cover on all components (i removed some to see if i could locate were parts were manufactured)



EV = aluminum housing, direct material mating, full epoxy cover on all components (i removed some to see if i could locate were parts were manufactured)



Volt = aluminum housing, silicone gasket, partial epoxy covering


HID = sealed aluminum housing (not smart to open!!!)


All were siliconed back and closed up


I only provide you with what i could see, there are some assumptions that can be made between some of these units. There have been claims of looking into the unit
and see on a specific component where it was made. this is TRUE for that component, trying to claim that the unit was made in the same country or location as the component is
something i would need proof of from the manufacturer. the claim between country of origin is difficult to argue, most of these unit change hands so many times that
locking down who created the electronic board is almost impossible. Now there is a common assumption that all things made in China are crap for quality. This is not
true as most Americans do not feel that the assumption we are arrogant is true. Phillips (the leader in just about all lighting) still gets the ballasts from a
Chinese manufacturer. The real test comes down to the manufacturer's quality control plan, with a proper one in place you will have reliable parts coming out. as
a USA consumer it is difficult to tell who has one and who doesn't. but usually price is a decent indicator. It goes back to the tried and true "You get what you
pay for!!!"




Performance:

This is what you guys have been waiting on!!!

Preface:


The sets that were tested are some what now on an unfair playing ground but the units were all 35W except the DDM which is a claimed 55W. Now i must tell you there
is NO such thing as a 55W ballast and even there instructions say 50W ballast, so why they advertise 55W is beyond my understanding. This is so that you know there are only 35
and 50 W ballasts at this time in this experiment.
These tests were done in as a controlled setting as i could provide. The two tests were conducted as follows:


Normal conditions test (on the road):
1. Light has been attached to a fixture which is attached to the asphalt (sorry road ) the light is set at the same height as the bikes
2. Light meter is set 32 ft out center of where beam lays (my preference)

3 Camera will be set on a tripod which will be set with one f stop and one exposure time through out all tests at my head height to mimic riding position
4 Light will be measured
6 Temperature of housing was to be measured, but housing was not hot to touch nor enough for me to measure (fairings may cause different effects). Proper way to measure housing temp is with a laser temp meter that tint professionals use that can pass through the clear lense then measure the temp of the inside of the housing. the black bart of housing will get warm but the headlight was exposed and not attached like in a normal bike, so heat was not insulated in and was able to disapate quickly.
7 after first test all were tested and re-tested 3 times with different bulbs in these numbers all bulbs used are 4300 (the dealers were allowed to choose which bulb they thought was brightest, but in my testing i found the best results from the 4300K to be the brightest

MAX lighting test:

conducted the same as above but use of 8'6" in a concrete room with zero light pollution. Pictures were not taken as all you see is a bright light and a light meter on and empty concrete room (basement).
Stock: 64 Foot candles (FC)
HID: 144 FC
EX: 282 FC
Volt: 291 FC
DDM: 607 FC


Normal Condition numbers and photos

Stock produced 3.7


HID produced 7.6


EX produced 12.0


Volt produced 9.1


DDM produced 20.6




Now you may wonder why the numbers vary a bit from the max test to the normal condition test. It has to do with the way the light is distributed and the color that is produced from the ballast. Even though the bulb is rated 4300k the ballast has a bunch to do with what is produced, this is where quality of unit comes into play.



The way i would like every one to take the numbers is as a percentage brighter than stock, as FC in normal conversation is irrelevant as it is all dependent on distance away from the unit.


SO!!!

Max would be seen like this

Stock - base value of 0
HID - 265% brighter than stock or can be said that it is 2.65 times brighter (move the decimal around on each number below)
EX - 441% brighter than stock
Volt - 455% brighter than stock
DDM - 948% brighter yes that is 9.48 times brighter


Normal condition would be

Stock - Base 0
HID - 205% brighter than stock
EX - 324% brighter than stock
Volt - 246% brighter than stock
DDM - 556% brighter than stock



Some side notes that were found during and aftre the testing:
1. HID ballast seemed to flicker no matter what bulb was used.
2. Igniters all seemed loud at start but the Volt was just a bit louder, all went quite after 30 seconds.
3. during the two different conditions the 3 re test numbers between each test were +- 5 FC and an average of the three test for each condition were posted

Long Term Test:

These units will all be installed in bike and ridden for the next Month and a report will be given on the performance of each.

The HID will now be removed from the test. While replacing a donor bike's ballast that broke about 3 months after installing it (HID was to be placed in this bike).



the new HID ballast that was used in the review was installed in the bike, BUT would no longer work. we removed the unit and found that it was no longer functioning.



So the Million dollar question:


Which do i prefer??? Well honestly what does it matter? i know this sounds like a cop-out but i think it is part of having an Unbiased report. I feel
that i have provided you the reader with the information to make an educated decision of what you find valuable.

WOW

thank you for this very detailed topic !!